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[OP] 127 views 1 replies Posted by Unknown 2 years ago Mar 29, 1:49 am forums.robertsspaceindustries.com
I'm working on setting up a PVC pipe HOTAS stand for my X-55 (I have the stand bases set up so boltholes can be drilled down through the pipes at the correct spots), and once I get it all dimensioned and everything, I plan on posting instructions on how to build it for anyone interested. I designed it so it wouldn't be terribly difficult to modify a few measurements (I'll make note of which pipes) to make it wider or narrower for different size chairs or adjust the height of the columns.

Right now I have the width between columns at 20", the left column (throttle) at 25" and the right column (joystick) at 21.5". Like I said, once I get it all finalized I'll post more detailed instructions on this thing. As it stands now, it cost me $40 for the parts, including the glue, although I might have to buy another 10' length of pipe for $5 since I had to get it cut in half to fit in my car, which may make it off on some pipe measurements when I start cutting it to final lengths...

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Okay, here is the sizes needed. Note that I have not yet actually built this, but will post when I do with any observations on assembly. From some quick math it looks like I'll need somewhere between 20'-30' of 1" piping for this, but it could actually be reduced a bit as technically the front angle pipe that goes down to the floor to meet with the Tee could have that Tee rotated and just shoot the bar across at that point, instead of extending to another set of elbows to go across.

The pipe lengths are also including the amount needed for fitting into the Elbows and Tees, which is something like 1.125" or so, which may or may not vary depending on the maker of the fittings.

The pipes that would have to be adjusted to make the assembly wider or narrower would be P13. The pipes that would have to be lengthened or shortened to make the left side (25" tall side) taller or shorter would be P5 and P3. The pipes that would have to be lengthened or shortened to make the right side (21.5" tall side) taller or shorter would be P15 and P14.

Currently I plan on not actually gluing P5, P3, P15 or P14 in place, in case I need to replace those pipes to adjust the height myself. I also think I am going to bolt the P13 pipe to the Elbows and Tees in case I need to adjust the width in the future.

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*Update*

This is what I had left of 30' or PVC pipe, so it was pretty close. I got lucky because I wasn't planning what pipes to cut to make sure I had enough length on each, as the last two longer pipes I cut I ended up with about 2" extra.

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And the pipes cut.

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At this point I only did a dry fitting, and am not sure everything is fully seated, but it's already very stable. I also don't have the holes drilled for the HOTAS yet, but you get the idea. I also got lucky again that the width of the front of the stand fits perfectly in between the posts of my desk, which is how I now operate, mostly on luck.

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[Re] PVC HOTAS stand 127 views 0 replies Posted by Unknown 1 year ago Jun 30, 7:34 pm
127 views. 0 replies. Posted by Unknown 1 year ago Jun 30, 7:34 pm

Hi,

 

I know I am late to the party, but could you send me the design file?

I am looking into building a stand that would incorporate the HOTAS and a keyoard stand, and your design is a good base to use.

My email is stilldutch@gmail.com

Thanks in advance.